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Kleines and Grosses Gelmerhorn

Traversing the Kleine and Grosse Gelmerhorn from south to the north is a classic and very rewarding climb on really good granite. This climbing tour begins by the south Gelmerlücke at the foot of the south ridge of the Kleine Gelmerhorn. Climb down from the Gelmer hut to the middle Diechter and then up towards the deepest gorge which reaches down from the southern Gelmerlücke. The south ridge ends with a block-shaped peak and a plateau with a fine grip leading up to it (bypass possible to the east).

An abseiling spot (30 metres) leads down to the Gelmer saddle. The most common route to the peak of the Grosse Gelmerhorn is over a ridge from the west side. The climb down takes you over the smaller rocks of the north ridge, to the northern Gelmerlücke and over flat rocks down to the middle Diechter.

Difficulty: 4a
Length:  Roughly 6 hours from the Gelmer hut and back

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